Donghwasa Temple

While not as huge and elaborate as Bulgoksa, and while not home to as many or as iconic National Treasures, Donghwasa was in some ways even more impressive. For one thing, it is actually functioning as a temple; monks are everywhere, seemingly heedless of the tourism, going about the business of monking. As I crossed the path of one, he stopped and pressed something into my hand. It was a little rice cake, brown in color, with nuts in it. He didn't say anything; he gave me the gift and walked briskly on. At least I hope it was a rice cake. What a beautiful experience. The feeling of serenity and power that I felt at Bulgoksa was more potent here, possibly due, not to the location, but to my frame of mind. At one point on a simple stone bridge, I was moved to tears.

Which emotion is in contrast to the awe I felt at turning the corner and seeing this:


The Tongil Daegu is one of the largest Buddhas in the world: 33 meters tall. It is not of particular historical import (it was only built in 1992), but is possible more significant for that reason. This Buddha is not an historical artefact; it is a tool in daily use by the monks of the Donghwasa area to focus their peaceful energies and spread them throughout the country. This particular Buddha represents unification, and the prayers that are constantly being focused through it are specifically for reunification with North Korea-not only a beautiful statue, but a beautiful sentiment. This speaks to what in general made Donghwasa more meaningful for me than Bulgoksa: it is real, active Buddhism, not Disneyland.

The tourist in me was altogher forgotten, though. Here's a picture of what the placard claims is Korean National Treasure no. 253, although it does not appear to be on the official list, which would make me irrationally irritated, if true.

That's right, a pair of stone flagpoles.